Oakmoss, Absolute

Oakmoss absolute

Evernia prunastri

This is a perfumer’s ingredient, not easy to get to know, ubiquitous in perfumery. Oakmoss is a lichen, and it grows mostly on oak trees; hence the name Oakmoss. It’s found all over southern Europe—ours is from France.

Our Oakmoss is IFRA compliant, with low levels of atranol-a known allergen--but this absolute is still not suitable for direct use on the skin. 

Oakmoss is well known for its fixative properties and deep base note. A must for every perfumer’s palette. It’s one of the most useful perfume ingredients and works very well in a multitude of perfumes, colognes, etc. Of all forms of Oakmoss seen in the past, the absolute is the most versatile, but oakmoss in general has been curtailed as an ingredient due to the high levels of atranol—considered a potential allergen.

Arctander really has a lot to say about Oakmoss, and to get an idea, I highly advise looking at a copy of Perfumes and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin.

Oakmoss is an important part of the notes of all fougère, chypre and moss perfumes, and a common ingredient in colognes, crêpe de Chines, forest notes, new hay, pine fragrances, lavender bouquets, Oriental bases, all types of floral fragrances, etc. It lends body and naturalness, texture, rich undertones, high fixative value…

Our oakmoss absolute is very thick, dark greenish/brown, semi solid, pourable if warmed, which it must be before use. It’s soluble in alcohol and partially soluble in fixed oils

The scent is phenolic-woody, tar-like, delicate and pleasant odor, reminiscent of the seashore, forest, moss, wood, bark, tannery, decaying green foliage. He continues that it’s impossible to give a precise description of the odor of Oakmoss absolute because they vary so much based on the process used. So we will leave it at that.

Oakmoss is not really an aromatherapy ingredient

Oakmoss

Lichen
Olive-green in look
Vastly used in perfumery,
Evernia prunastri.

Oakmoss
The elegant queen
Of mountainous temperate
With deer antler.

--Rain474 All Poetry